Quick answer
To choose labradorite well, ignore the stone lying flat and tilt it instead. Labradorite's colour is not pigment — it is light bouncing off microscopic internal layers, so it only appears within a narrow viewing angle. Pick a piece up, rock it slowly under a window or a warm lamp, and watch how much of the surface lights up and how wide the flash angle is. A stone that flashes across most of its face from several angles will look alive on your shelf. A stone that only sparks in one thin sliver will look grey most of the time. Everything else — colour, shape, price — comes second.
I have sold a lot of labradorite out of my Regina studio, and the same thing happens almost every single time someone picks a piece up for the first time. They turn it over, they frown a little, and they say some version of: "I don't see it."
Then they tilt it about fifteen degrees and their whole face changes.
That moment is the entire reason I wrote this. Labradorite is the one stone in my shop that genuinely does not photograph honestly, and it is the one people are most likely to feel disappointed by if nobody tells them how to look at it. So this is the how-to-look-at-it guide — not a meanings page. If you came for the traditional lore and metaphysical associations, I keep all of that on my Labradorite meaning and crystal healing properties page, and I would rather send you there than pad this out.
Why labradorite looks grey in half the photos you see
Labradorite is a feldspar, and inside it there are ultra-thin layers stacked like pages in a book. When light enters the stone it hits those layers, bounces back, and interferes with itself. What comes out the other side is a burst of blue, green, gold, or occasionally orange and purple. Mineralogists call the effect labradorescence. Everyone else just calls it the flash.
The important part is that this is directional. The layers sit at a particular orientation inside the rock, which means the flash only fires when the light source, the stone, and your eye line up. Move ten degrees off and it goes dark. That is not a flaw and it is not a bad piece — it is just how the stone works.
It also means a single photograph is nearly useless as a shopping tool. A seller who catches the perfect angle can make a mediocre stone look spectacular, and a seller shooting honestly in flat light can make a stunning one look like a driveway pebble. I photograph mine at several angles for exactly this reason, but even then, video and your own hands beat a still image every time.
The three things I check before I keep a piece
1. How wide is the flash angle?
This is the one that matters most and the one almost nobody asks about. Hold the stone at arm's length under a single light source and rotate it slowly. Count roughly how many degrees of rotation you get flash for. A generous piece will hold colour through a wide sweep — you will see it from the couch, from the doorway, from wherever. A narrow piece needs to be tilted deliberately to perform.
Neither is wrong. A narrow-angle stone can be gorgeous and is often cheaper. But if you want something that reads as blue on a shelf without you fussing over it, ask for the wide-angle piece.
2. How much of the surface lights up?
Look for what I think of as coverage. Some pieces flash edge to edge. Some have one hot band running through an otherwise grey body. Some have several separate patches that fire at slightly different angles, which honestly can be the most fun to hold because the stone changes character as you turn it.
Coverage is the single biggest driver of price in my experience, more than size. A small palm stone with full coverage will cost more than a big freeform with a stripe, and I think it should.
3. What colours are actually in there?
Blue is the most common. Green is common. Gold shows up often, usually alongside blue. Orange, pink and purple flash is genuinely rarer, and when a piece carries three or four colours across its face it is called spectrolite territory and it is priced accordingly. I currently have a multi-colour orange, pink and purple flash freeform in the shop that is a good example of what that looks like in person.
One thing worth knowing: the deep, near-black labradorite with a silvery-blue sheen is often sold as larvikite or black labradorite, and it is a related but distinct stone. It has a subtler, more scattered shimmer rather than a directional flash. I carry it as Larvikite stretch bracelets because it wears beautifully, but do not expect fireworks from it.
Matching the flash to the form you actually want
The shape you buy should follow how you plan to use the stone, because different forms show flash very differently.
- Palm stones and hearts are the most forgiving. The curved surface means some part of it is almost always at the right angle, so the flash follows your hand as you turn it. If you are buying labradorite to hold — for grounding practice, for meditation, or just for something to fidget with at your desk — start here. My mini palm stones are the easiest way in, and the heart palm stone is the one I reach for personally.
- Freeforms are polished to show off the best face, so they are shelf pieces first. Check which side is the "front" and make sure it faces the room and a light source. The standard freeform is a good baseline for what to expect.
- Carvings are a bit of a gamble and a bit of a delight — the carver cuts across the layers, so flash appears in unpredictable pockets. My carved cloud specimen is a nice illustration of that.
- Tumbles and pocket stones are rounded on every side, so they flash from almost anywhere. They are the best value in the whole category and the right pick for a bag, a pocket, or a first crystal. Large tumbled pocket stones are usually the sweet spot.
- Jewellery sits close to your body and moves constantly, which is ideal — you catch the flash all day without thinking about it. A wire wrapped necklace or a wire wrapped ring will do more flashing in an afternoon than a shelf piece does in a week. There is even a labradorite phone pop socket if you want it genuinely always in hand.
You can see everything I currently have in the labradorite collection.
How to display it so it actually performs
This is where most people go wrong, and it is easy to fix.
Labradorite needs directional light — a single strong source, not diffuse ambient light. A window, a lamp, a spotlight. Overhead ceiling light spread evenly across a room is the worst possible case, which is exactly why your piece looks dull on the bookshelf and stunning on the windowsill.
Two practical things I tell people in the studio:
- Put it where light comes from one side, roughly at or above eye level, and angle the flash face toward where you usually stand or sit. Ten minutes of experimenting will double how often you notice it.
- If you are photographing it — for insurance, for a gift listing, for Instagram — use one light source, turn your flash off, and move your phone rather than the stone. Rock your hand slowly and shoot video, not stills. You will catch it.
Looking after labradorite
Labradorite is a feldspar, which puts it around 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs hardness scale. That is softer than quartz. Practically, this means:
- Do not store it loose in a bag with quartz points or tumbles — the quartz will scratch it and dull the polish that makes the flash visible.
- It has distinct cleavage planes, so it can chip or split on a hard impact. Do not drop it on tile.
- Warm water and a soft cloth is all it needs. Skip salt soaks, ultrasonic cleaners and harsh chemicals — salt in particular can etch the polished surface over time.
- It is fine in brief sunlight but I would not leave it on a hot south-facing sill for months on end. Moonlight, a selenite plate, or simply setting it down with intention are all gentler options.
A dull labradorite is very often just a dirty or scuffed labradorite. Wipe it before you conclude it has lost its magic.
What people traditionally reach for labradorite for
I will keep this brief since it lives in more detail on the labradorite meaning page. Traditionally and intuitively, labradorite is associated with transformation, protection during change, intuition, and holding your own energy steady when the room is loud. Folklore from Labrador and from Inuit tradition ties it to the northern lights. Many people keep it close through job changes, moves, and grief.
None of that is medical, and I never present it as such. It is a stone with a long history of being carried by people going through something. That is enough of a reason for me.
FAQ
Why doesn't my labradorite flash?
Almost always the light or the angle, not the stone. Labradorescence is directional — it only fires when a single light source, the stone's internal layers, and your eye line up. Take it to a window, hold it at arm's length, and rotate it slowly. If it still does nothing at any angle, check whether it is dusty or fingerprinted, because a filmed-over polish will kill the effect.
What is the difference between labradorite and larvikite?
Larvikite, often sold as black labradorite, is a related feldspar rock with a darker body and a soft silvery-blue sheen that scatters rather than flashing directionally. True labradorite gives you sharp, angle-dependent bursts of blue, green or gold. Larvikite is more subtle and tends to be more affordable, which makes it lovely for everyday jewellery.
Is more expensive labradorite always better?
Price mostly tracks flash coverage and colour rarity, not size. A small palm stone that lights up edge to edge in three colours will cost more than a large freeform with one blue stripe — and it is genuinely the better stone if you want something that performs. But if you love a piece with one dramatic band, buy that one. The stone you actually pick up is worth more than the technically superior one you leave in a drawer.
Can labradorite go in water?
Brief contact with cool or warm water is fine — a rinse and a soft cloth is my normal cleaning routine. What I avoid is prolonged soaking, salt water, and ultrasonic cleaners. At roughly 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale with distinct cleavage, labradorite is soft enough that salt and vibration can dull the polished surface, and a dull surface means less flash.
Which labradorite should I buy first?
A tumbled pocket stone or a mini palm stone. They are rounded on all sides so they flash from nearly any angle, they are inexpensive enough that you can learn what you like without committing, and they are the right size to actually carry. Once you know whether you are drawn to blue, gold or the rarer multi-colour flash, move up to a freeform or a carving.
Does labradorite need cleansing or charging?
That is a personal practice question more than a mineralogical one. If it is part of how you work with your stones, moonlight, a selenite plate, sound, or simply holding it with intention are all gentle and safe for labradorite. Please skip salt and skip long sun exposure, for the surface reasons above.
Come find your piece
Every labradorite I list gets photographed at several angles, because I would rather you see the honest range than fall for one lucky shot. If you are choosing between two pieces and cannot decide, message me — I will tell you which one flashes wider in person, even when that is the cheaper one.
Have a look through the labradorite collection, and if you would like the meanings and traditional properties side of things, that all lives on the labradorite meaning page.
With love from Regina,
Laurie